Jidai Matsuri - Festival of the Ages

About 1,200 years ago, Emperor Kammu chose picturesque Yamashiro with its beautiful mountains and clean water as the site of Heian-Kyo, the new capital. This decision made on October 22nd, 794 was the beginning of Kyoto. In celebration of the 1100th anniversary of the founding of the capital and in commemoration of the Emperor Kammu, the citizen of Kyoto established the Heian Shrine in 1895.

The establishment of Heian Jingu was a symbol of great respect the citizen of that time had for the Emperor. Another purpose was to unite the entire city under the Heian Kosha organization.

As one of the projects of the Heian Kosha, it was decided to annually celebrate October 22nd (the date when the capital was moved to Kyoto) with a grand festival - the Jidai Matsuri (時代祭)

The highlight of this festival is a procession of colorful and varied costumes and articles of the nobility as well as commoners, representing various ages during the passage of more than ten centuries. Thus the name 'Festival of the Ages'.

This procession consists of about 3,000 persons and stretches several kilometers in length. The costumes and equipment used are historically accurate.

The Royal Army of the Meiji Restoration (1868) is headed by a drum and the fife (flute) military band.

The Seven Court Nobles (shown is Sanjo Sanetomi, 1837 - 1891 with some good fashion sense) banded together in an effort to persuade the Emperor not to open the country to foreign relations.

Not sure who he is - noble man or commoner ?

For important imperial functions, the Tokugawa Shogun (1837 - 1853, Tokugawa Ieyoshi, 12th shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan) sent his deputies to Kyoto to pay his respect to the Emperor and the Imperial Family. As shown, carrying huge traveling boxes is a typical scene of those days.

The procession from the Kenrei-mon Gate of the Kyoto Imperial Palace to the Heian Shrine lasts for nearly five hours. It also includes the charming women dressed in the beautiful kimono of the imperial court (to be continued in next posting).

Halloween - The Pooky Night

Each year, on the last night of October, millions of children across the U.S dress-up in costume and take to the streets for a spooky dose of 'trick or treat' fun. In the late 20th century, most other Western countries adopted Halloween as a part of the American popular culture.

Halloween dates back to Ireland some 2000 years ago. Halloween is supposedly the Day of the Dead. And this festival is called the Pooky Night in some parts of Ireland. Japan does not celebrate a western-style Halloween. Instead the japanese celebrates the 'Obon Festival' which is similar to Halloween festivities in that likewise, it is dedicated to the spirits of ancestors. Meanwhile the chinese celebrates Festivals of the Hungry Ghost - the spirits (of the ancestors) supposedly rose from the dead during the 7th month of the lunar new year and, in order to attract them, food was left on the doors.

Wherever you may be happy Halloween and have fun ! And so much of a celebration, it was reported recently that a body of a suicide woman hanging from tree was mistaken for some halloween decoration. Scary ~

Something to Talk About Part 3

Celebrating birthdays is a long standing custom that people over the world recognize. Traditionally, birthdays are celebrated as a means to offer congratulations and present gifts in honor of one's birth.

Birthday celebrations date back as far as biblical times, when celebrations among Pharaohs and other significant individuals have been mentioned. There is even some evidence to suggest that in pagan cultures people feared that evil spirits lurked about an individual on their birthday because they tended to become more malicious around important events in one's life. In this case birthdays, weddings, anniversaries and actual births were all noted for their importance and their potential for harm. Because of this, gifts were often bestowed upon the celebrant as a means of wishing them well and offering good luck.

Today is my birthday. Well, it is a happy 31st birthday. Geez, I am not as excited as I normally would be. How come ? But thank you for all the birthday wishes.

Do you get excited about your birthday ?

They say that age is all in your mind. The trick is keeping it from creeping down into your body.

Kurama Fire Festival

One of Kyoto's most dramatic festivals - the Kurama Fire Festival is held annually on the night of October 22nd.

This festival dates back some 1000 years ago when the god of the Yuki shrine was invited to visit (enshrinement of the god as a protector deity) from the Imperial Palace where the deity was said to reside. To light the way and welcome the god, flaming torches were placed along the road leading to the shrine. To commomerate this event, this festival is now held annually.

To get there one has to take the Eizan line train from Demachiyanagi Station to Kurama Station and the trip takes about half an hour. But by the time when I arrived at the Demachiyanagi Station (around 5.00 pm) the train were already packed and extremely long queue lines stretched out of the station (approximately 2 - 3 hours waiting time I was told by two japanese girls that I met at the station - Iwata-san and Kasai-san). When I was about to give up my plan to see the festival, Ono-san (another stranger) approached us and suggested that all four of us might as well share the fare and take a cab (single journey, 3000 yen) to Kibune-guchi Station. From there, it will be another 15 minutes walk to the temple area. What perfect strangers ! And we becoming friends !

As early as 6.00 pm , bonfires were set alight in front of houses along the street.

School children were seen carrying little fire torches in their hands.

On the other hand, men wearing loincloths shouldered huge flaming torches.

During the torch procession, men were drinking beer and sake and were shouting in celebration. Torches lit up the night sky as cries of 'Sairei ! Sairyo !' filled the air.

It was really cold last night. Ono-san bought us amazake (sweet, nonalcoholic japanese drink made from fermented rice). I had tempura udon for my dinner.

At about 8.00 pm, torches were gathered together one after another heading for the main gate of the Kurama Temple.

At its half-way point, the procession made a brief stop (the place where we were anxiously waiting for some great fire show).

Giant blazing torches were held furiously high up in the air.

Sparks showered over participants and spectators - being hit by these sparks is said to be very auspicious.

The spectators were excited and almost went berserk ! The vigorous fire performance was so superbly entertaining and spectacular.

Very heavy duty - the torch is approximately four metres in length and 100 kg in weight.

After a brief stop for about 10 minutes, torch carriers continued their journey to the Yuki Shrine.

As the procession reaches the precincts of the Yuki Shrine, the festival eventually reaches its most dramatic point (between 9.00 - 10.00 pm). But the main gate of Kurama Temple leading to the shrine (best viewing spot) was unbelievably crowded and impossible for us to get there, unless one goes there really really early.

No doubt the festival is legendary. It was an incredible fire display ! And lucky me ... need not to queue for the train. We had our cab waiting for us.

Fisherman's Market Kobe

Nearby Kobe Harbourland, there is a mosaic-like effect shopping and gourmet food mall. Vicky and I had dinner in the Fisherman's Market.

Welcome to Fisherman's Market Kobe !
All-you-can-eat seafood buffet : 2800 yen / person.

Large selection of seafood (sushi, chilled shellfish, fried seafood appetizers and entrees and more) plus pizza, pasta, sandwiches and salad bar.

First serving. Soup (tomato-base with fishball) and seven varieties of salad (e.g. smoked salmon, tuna sashimi, caesar salad and etc).

Second serving. Huge crab legs and other fried seafood appetizers. Pizza and pasta.

Third serving. All-you-can eat prawns. Clams and oysters. Yum yum. I love carbonara pasta. It is never worth to eat buffet. I know that I could only eat this much. Sometimes I just try so hard and continue gabbing the food, continue eating and so much damage to the body (overfeeding of the body in a single meal).

Fourth serving. Here I go again. Dessert and cakes. Oh, I have eaten too much. We must go !

Last serving. Burrppp ! Pathetic I know ... four scoops of ice cream.

The seafood buffet was just ok. Nothing splendid but the staffs were quite friendly. The restaurant was a little crowded (weekend nights probably). Canary Wharf vs Canary Warf (hhmmm).

The many empty cans of clams.

The 108 metre high Kobe Tower at night.

The giant ferris wheel and the classy MOSAIC shopping mall at night - notable tourist promenade. Really cool spinning bright lights from the ferris wheel and the way it reflects on sea water.

Click here : Shop Guide to Mosaic Kobe Harbourland (in japanese only).

Kobe has strived to recover from the tremendous sorrow and damage by the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake. The city has moved forward with renewed vitality. Kobe now presents a contrast between the old and the new, providing a colourful way of life and enjoying a reputation as an international port city where people from both Japan and abroad love to live (seen here is a painting of the Old Harbour).

Images of Kobe - Ijinkan

Kobe is one of Japan's most attractive cities. Local tourists go there and enjoy the feeling of foreign travel without actually a need to leave the japanese soil.

Kobe was one of the first cities to open for trade with the West, as of 1868. Ijinkan (ijin means foreign people and kan means house) are the 19th-century residences of Kobe's foreign traders, clustered in the Kitano area. One can get first hand impression how foreigners in Japan used to live.

Approximately 30 of these Western-style homes still remain. Many of these houses became National Treasure and are now open for the public to visit. Only very few remain on private hands and less is available for rent.

Of so many visits to Kitano, I have only seen the insides of two - The Uroko-no-Ie and The Original Holland House of Ailion. The Uroko-no-Ie has a castle-like exterior and is nicknamed the Fish-scale House because of its slate walls.

The colorful wooden clogs in The Original Holland House of Ailion.

From clogs to windmill to blogs. Nice picture, nice pose and beautiful Vicky.

One can enjoy wearing Dutch national costumes (free of charge) or other dresses (1000 yen).

The Weathercock House is constructed as the house of German trader G. Thomas in 1909, and famous for the weathercock on the steeple.

There are quite a few of nice souvenir shops.

Other picture : The statue of a naked woman.

The famous buta man (pork steam bun) in Nankinmachi Chinatown Kobe. Most of the time, a very long queue into the shop - The Ryoshoki Buta Manju. Very famous shop, it seems.

Ikuta Taisha - Shrine Ceremonies

Ikuta Shrine is a Shinto shrine in Kobe. Founded by the Empress Jingu at the beginning of the 3rd century, it was once used as base for a festival welcoming back warriors after the last japanese invasion of Korea. The shrine's land was much larger back then, before the city of Kobe was built around it.

People visit shrines to pay respect to the Shinto gods (kami) and to pray for good blessings. But shrines are also visited during special events (such as during new year, shichi-go-san and other festivals). Traditionally, the religious japanese wedding ceremony is held in Shinto style at a shrine.

The bride wears a wedding kimono of white silk and the groom wears a black one, decorated with his family crest (kamon, fifth picture from top) in white. During the ceremony, a priest to conduct the ceremony - the couple is first purified, then asked to drink sake (three flat cups of rice wine). The sharing of sake is one of the oldest traditional japanese wedding ceremonial customs (san san kyu do, which means three sets of three sips equal nine) dating back to the 8th century, which symbolizes a formal bond between the bride and groom. Then the groom to read the words of commitment (marriage oath) and the 'I do' stuff.

The ceremony is usually visited by close family members of the couple. Non-family members don't usually attend the marriage ceremony itself, rather they go to the wedding reception (in japanese, kekkon hiroen).

Symbolic offerings are given to the god. During the wedding ceremony, the priest is supported by Shinto serving girls (miko). They must be unmarried and are often the priest's daughter.

If you are attending a Japanese wedding reception, you are expected to bring cash for a gift (called oshugi). The amount depends on your relationship with the couple and the region. Unless the fixed amount is indicated on the invitation card, the average is 30000 yen (approx. RM 1000) for a friend's wedding.

Shichi Go San means 'Seven Five Three'. Girls of age three and seven and boys of age three and five are celebrated on shichi-go-san, and it is prayed for their good health and growth. Girls will put on their prettiest silk kimono.

November 15 is shichi-go-san day. But because the date is not a national holiday, many families bring their children on weekends prior or after that day.

More about Kobe : The Great Hanshin Earthquake.

Aso-san Part Two

The desert-like appearance around the crater of the volcano, in some fact may appear barren, gray and lifeless, but the rest of the landscape inside the caldera is another world of beautiful green.

The grassy meadow of Kusa-senri within other flattened volcanic crater - this area with sufficient surface water from the two lakes is suitable grazing land.

Beautiful picture of the lake and the way the mountain reflects. Unspoiled and tranquil.

At the far end, Naka-dake emitting occasional puffs of smoke.

The volcanic caldera is surrounded by fertile agricultural land, home to numerous farming villages.

The perfect cone of Komezuka (translated as rice mound), another extinct volcano.

Traveling by bus - scenery here can be quite spectacular. Enjoying such scenery is a perfect way to spend the morning - lush of meadows, grazed by horses and cattle - so peaceful.

Holy cow ! The cow is seen here peeing (peeing alot actually, shown here is just the ending. I was too slow with my camera).

We could have traveled back to Beppu. But since we bought ferry ticket departing from Shin-moji Port (at the northern tip of Kyushu Island), the journey from Aso-Kumamoto all the way to the terminal was long and a dreadful one.

Shin-moji (Kita-kyushu) - Osaka Nanko International Ferry Terminal (4340 yen one way).

Kyushu (Beppu and Aso) - a perfect place for relaxation and is blessed with abundant nature.

Aso-san Part One

This visit to the Aso-san is an experience most unique and never to be forgotten.

Aso is the main town in the Aso-san area (incredibly small town). To get to the summit, one can catch local buses that operate hourly from the JR Aso Station to the Aso-Higashi cable car station (420 yen).

A series of Aso-san eruptions over the past 30 million years have drastically changed the landscape all around the volcano surroundings. Shown is a little shrine atop Mount Aso.

As the result of four large eruptions (last dated some 100,000 years ago), the Aso-san volcano caldera is triggered and formed (shown here is a part of the caldera collapse - emptying of the magma chamber beneath the volcano and collapse of the volcano into itself).

The central cone group consists of now five smaller mountains within the outer rim - Eboshi-dake, Kijima-dake, Naka-dake, Neko-dake and Taka-dake (the highest point, 1592 m).

The crater of Naka-dake continuously emits smoke and still an active volcano. The first documented eruption in Japan was in Naka-dake in 553. Since then Naka-dake has erupted 167 times. Although this is a very popular tourist destination, only when Aso-san's Naka-dake is not misbehaving can visitors have access all the way up to the rim of the crater (by cable car from Aso-Higashi Station, 410 yen each way).

Most eruptions of Naka-dake are small to moderate in size. These explosions produce ash or block deposits. Concrete bomb shelters are built (not shown) in case of unexpected eruptions.

Another picture - landscape of the volcano caldera.

Walking on dry volcano ash.

Layers of rock that has changed in texture and composition by heat during the different volcanic eruptions

Hiking is possible to discover the scenic wonders of Mount Aso.

The hike up was tough (although we did expect some tough trail) especially on a hot day. But with spirits up, we reached the peak (not the highest one).

The peak offered some breathtaking views over the Aso-san area.

Buddha statue and the smoke-emitting Naka-dake (as background).

We had Dango-jiru soup set for dinner - thin and flat dumplings, made by kneading a mixture of flour and salt, stewed along with a variety of other ingredients in miso soup.

The soup was a little too salty. I added rice. Not a bad combination.

That night we stayed at the Aso Youth Hostel. Quite good for such low price (2450 yen).

Eddie has better pictures of Aso-san on his blog. Do check it out. To be continued (last chapter)...

Aso Yufu Kogen Bus - Kuju Garden

The following day we packed up and headed out early, west towards Aso (Kumamoto Prefecture). Mount Aso (more popularly known as Aso-san) is the largest active volcano in Japan and among the largest in the world.

Instead of traveling by JR local trains, we took the Aso Yufu Kogen Bus Tour (2000 yen per person) to Aso, that we booked through a travel agency in the JR Beppu Station. The tour guide was exceptionally informative (talkative) and as we journeyed through the beautiful mountains, she explained the history of the area.

The journey time was longer than the train considering an hour stop at the Kuju Garden (Kuju Hana Koen, bottom pictures).

Admission fee of 500 yen in order to enter the Kuju Hana Koen. Purple, red and white flower-filled fields.

Closer shot of the beautiful purple flower.

Stretch of chili plants.

Enjoying the rose garden - these brilliant orange roses are a symbolic of fascination.

Inside the greenhouse.

Pink flower and the butterfly feeding on flower nectar.

The sunflower.

The wilting sunflower.

Journey to Aso-san, to be continued ...

Beppu Onsen Hoyo Land

A visit to the onsen is a must if there is any trip to Japan. Some foreigners may be uncomfortable with onsen experience as one is required to get naked with strangers. And sometimes with japanese staring and giggling at the sight of a naked gaijin (foreigner) it can be rather embarassing.

Beppu Onsen Hoyo Land - This is one of the greatest onsen I have ever visited so far in Japan. We had an exotic mineral mud bath.

I didn't take my camera (left it inside the locker) because photography was not allowed inside the onsen compound.

However, after the bath, I had a quick friendly chat with the frontdesk operator. I asked for brochures so that at least I could scan some pictures for blog use. So nice of her, she allowed us to take a few pictures. These men (bottom picture) were all excited and ready to bare in front of our cameras (my friend told them we're reporters from Malaysia).

Most onsens are gender-segregated and not all of them have English written on the door and to save yourself a few blushes, one is recommended to learn the japanese character for men (otoko, 男) and woman (onna, 女). Hoyo Land has a mix-gender outdoor bath (a side-by-side bamboo split-mix, one marked for men and another marked for women). This makes bath time alot more fun, with men occasionally crossing to the other side.

Another unique thing you can do in Beppu is take a bath in hot sand where you get buried up to your neck.

The Myoban Hot Spring area is famous for the straw-thatched roof of Yu-no-Hanagoya (literally translates as hot spring flower hut).

Yu-no-Hanagoya started producing natural bath ingredients over 250 years ago and continues to do so today.

Inside the straw-thatched hut - the mineral rock collector.

A closer look at the alum supplies, used as natural bathing supplements.

The sulphuric air to provide a therapeutic atmosphere (although it smelled like some stinky fart).

View of the 100 m high Beppu Tower from the hotel.

Apart from the nine burning hells and the famous onsens, Beppu is also known as the Las Vegas of Japan, a reference more to its extensive sex industry than gambling. We were surprised.

Beppu - this place is a must visit.

Beppu - The Hell Tour

Beppu is Japan's onsen (hot spring) capital, containing nine major onsens, which are sometimes referred to as the 'nine burning hells of Beppu'. The city is sandwiched between sea and mountains. The combination of sea, mountains and onsens makes Beppu an ideal location for vacation.

Beppu has two types of hot springs - jigoku (地獄, hells) are the ones for looking at and onsen are the ones for bathing in. The hells are Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pool Hell, top picture), Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell), Kinryu Jigoku (Golden Dragon Hell), Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell), Kamado Jigoku (Oven Hell), Oniyama Jigoku (Devil's Mountain Hell), Tatsumaki Jigoku (Water-spout Hell) and Hon Bozu Jigoku (Monk's Hell). We saw only four of them.

The Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pool Hell) - a favorite for tourists features a pond of hot red water (iron oxide renders the pond red).

Onsens are reknowned for their therapeutic qualities - healing many physical and mental conditions including arthritis, stomach problems, anxiety and depression, skin conditions, nervous disorders and rheumatism to name but a few. And each onsen is unique.

For example, a perfect treatment for dry skin and sooths skin irritations - the magical restorative and healing power of onsens.

Umi Jigoku is so called because it resembles the sea. This 200 meter deep, cobalt blue pond of boiling water emerged 1200 years ago after a volcanic explosion.

The making of onsen tamago (literally translates as hot spring eggs) - soaking of eggs in the natural sulfuric pond.

A lotus flower - symbolic of all that is good and beautiful and revered a sacred symbol despite on hell grounds.

Another picture - the blossoming of white lotus flowers.

Throwing few coins into the pond (with a little red demon standing inside a basin) for some good luck.

The devil on earth - a mascot to the hot spring sites !

The warning sign. It's kinda funny.

Kinryu Jigoku (Golden Dragon Hell) - the dragon with steam gushing out from its mouth. She is a beauty but not so much of a golden dragon though !

Steam power at the Kinryu Hell.

These are certainly terrifying hells. Though you cannot see demons (real ones), it is clear that one wrong step, one slip, will bring you to rapid destruction (some 80 - 90 degree Celcius of hot water). Beppu is the hell city ! To be continued ...